Monday 31 May 2010

Kampala etc.


I have been in Uganda almost a week now and been based close to Kampala. I'm staying with Sam's cousin Justine in a house in a place called Kyangara. I have been mostly taken around by Sam's nephew Joy (pronounced Joey) who runs an events company in central Kampala. Joy's Buda Buda man have picked me up from Justine's shoe shop in Kabasu (about 15 mins West of Kampala) to take me around Kampala in the days. This shop is on a central junction in Kabusu. I now have an hour before I head to the project where I will now be based during the week with weekends allocated for recreational activities - e.g. show me the lions.

A boda boda is a moped used as a taxi. These mopeds buzz about the place weaving inventively and quickly around the busy roads. I sit on the back without a helmet and nothing to hold on to - sometimes me and Joy both squeeze on - and it is easily one of the best ways I have ever travelled. Joy sometimes gently holds onto my knees because he's concerned they will be knocked off by passing cabs or other boda bodas vying for position. I will update with photos when possible.

Travel generally is refreshingly liberating and a massive departure from the land of traffic lights. Some would say it is very dangerous as there seem to be no real rules or regulations and drivers generally negotiate road space through honks and points. You can't hang around though as no one will wait for you to join traffic, you just have to go. I am lucky enough to have been given the chance to drive last night and liked it very much. It is fun avoiding the miasma of cavernous potholes which decorate the roads, and once you are off the main roads, you are basically on to bumpy bumpy dirt tracks.

The internet is supplied by internet cafes, which are not prevalent outside Kampala. I have accessed one nearby to Justine's shop in Kabusu. The internet is 5 minutes walk away but slow. So, I cannot quickly breeze through Facebook, email, Football gossip, latest action in the test, etc in the limited time I've. I have still not got into Facebook. And when I say cafe, it is actually a load of PC's crammed into a small space and no one is drinking Frappucino. So, it's a challenge to manage the time and I don't know if there is any internet near the project. Internet costs 1,000 USH an hour. There are 3100USH to the pound. Also there is no internet on the phone. Phone is all pay as you go and I have an MTN sim card in my phone. Justine kindly armed me with this SIM on arrival and I don't know how I would get on without it.

I notice that the War Crimes football match is news in the UK. We drove past the national stadium yesterday and I was told this was going on.



I have been eating well in a carb heavy diet. I eat Matoke (mashed bananas) and lots of meat. Dinner is usually 10pm. Lunch is usually chicken or fish with chips from some cafe or other. The fish is a whole Tilapia baked and presented head and all in tact. My role is then to break into the skin and tear out the flesh fingers first. It is a tasty fish and I am pleased that I am not a die-hard vegetarian as I'm not sure what I would eat. Saying that, I did meet a vegan the other day.

I have to go as I have just been called by Justine as a man has arrived at the shop waiting to talk to me about football. Summing up on my first week, I would say this place is wonderful. There is a freedom and vibrancy to the place that I know a lot of our local authorities yearn for in the UK. Without traffic enforcements and lights and other state invasions to help keep us safe and in order, it is amazing to experience that people just look out for each other and genuinely seem to care about each other too. It is a long way from the experience of, say, taking the tube. People are friendly and good to each other and not just around me because I am a visitor. I will try and get round to more reactions and comment as soon as possible.

2 comments:

  1. Lamb it sounds amazing. I want to be there cruising around on scooters with no helmets and eating crazy fish. Keep us posted old boy. Hen.

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  2. "[I]t is impossible to convey the life-sensation of any given epoch of one's existence--that which makes its truth, its meaning--its subtle and penetrating essence. It is impossible. We live, as we dream--alone."

    Joe C

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